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The whole point of braising is normally to transform a tough piece of meat into a tender one, and any of its gristly bits into gelatin. But not all cheap cuts need it. I want to introduce a few speedy braises and ease you into the habits of slow cooking that are the secret behind so many wonderful winter dishes. And it does not have to be a cut of meat in that pot, there are one-pot dishes for fish and vegetables, too.

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